Here is some of the most common terminology you will encounter when shopping for a leather sofa (and some of these don't mean what you think they mean).

Getting the right leather for your sofa is complicated, thanks to the many kinds available. It's made more complicated because there are tons of terms used to describe the traits of leather hides, and some of those terms are used interchangeably or incorrectly — even by "professionals." Why should you listen to me? I own a luxury furniture company and have spent millions of dollars buying thousands of cowhides. Let's get into it.

The "types" of leather:

What you absolutely do not want: Bonded leather, recycled leather, bi-cast leather, or "leather match."

Bonded aka recycled leather is composed of 10-20% leather scrap ground to pulp and mixed with polyurethane. That mixture is spread onto a backing fabric. Yes, the word "leather" is in the name. No, it will not perform anything like actual leather. It will split and crack. It doesn't matter what the salesperson says. It will fail in less than 5 years.

Bi-cast leather uses a split leather base (the lower portion of the hide, which is weaker) topped with polyurethane or vinyl. Yes, there is real leather in there somewhere, but it's the lowest quality and, yes, it will flake.

Leather match is a fun little term used to cover up cost savings on the part of the manufacturer. Leather is expensive. Many companies (and you will be surprised by who does this!) put real leather on just the "touch" surfaces, then use a matching faux or low-grade leather on the outsides and back of the sofa. Will it last? Ehh...it's better than bonded. But don't think you're getting a true leather sofa. Look closely at the documentation or ask the salesperson to verify that the entire sofa is upholstered in the same leather. To reiterate, this is being done at least on some pieces by companies you would not expect to do this.

Full-grain leather is the gold standard. It is leather in which the natural grain pattern has not been altered. It features the genuine grain texture of the natural hide and is generally considered the most durable. These leathers are often thicker, which can make them more resistant to stretching. Note that this does not mean that it is resistant to scratching or staining. That's...a different thing.

Top-grain leather is made from the uppermost layer of the hide after it has been split and hair and epidermis have been removed. The grain may be either natural or embossed. This is second-best in terms of durability. Both full and top grain leathers are perfectly suitable for upholstery use and will last for years.

Nubuck leather has a buffed surface that results in a slight nap or suede-like appearance. Most nubuck leathers are pure aniline leathers and many feature a moisture repellent. They are more of a specialty item as they can be trickier to clean and will patina with use.

Suede is made from the underside of the hide, which is softer and more pliable than the outer side of the hide. It is super soft and suedes can be found in a wide range of colors, but it will not be as durable as other forms of leather.

Vegan leather almost always refers to polyurethane (PU) or vinyl (PVC). Yes, there are some products on the market made from cactus or cork, but they're rare, expensive, and durability is an unknown. High-quality PU products are durable and have a good feel, but they typically feel more "commercial" and less premium than actual leather and do not offer the same characterful, rich finishes. They are often also thinner than actual leather, so they may be more susceptible to puncture.

The tanning processes:

Chromium or "chrome" tanned leather utilizes chromium salts, a key component in the tanning process for the vast majority of upholstery leathers. Chrome-tanned leather is softer, more durable, available in a wider range of colors and finishes, and more stable than other tanning methods. The industry uses Chromium(III) sulfate, which stabilizes the collagen fibers in cowhides to make a durable, soft finishes. Lots of people (including some eco blogs that genuinely do not know what the heck they're talking about) vilify Chromium as an incredibly dangerous, toxic chemical. They're actually talking about Chromium VI, a carcinogenic and hazardous chemical that can result as a byproduct from the tanning process IF and ONLY IF the tannery does not use proper protocols during manufacturing. Most countries strictly limit the Chromium VI levels in finished leather products. So, no, chrome-tanned leather is not unsafe for you or the environment so long as you are buying quality leather from a reputable tannery. (This is why it's important to work with a furniture company that can actually tell you where their leather comes from...)

Veg-tanned leather uses plant-derived tannins rather than chromium salts. The tannins come from sources like tree bark and leaves. This is the O.G. method for leather tanning. The process is dramatically slower (weeks or months versus days), and creates a very different kind of leather. The finished hides tend to be quite stiff and are very prone to aging, staining, and patina. You tend to see veg-tanned leathers used in garments like belts. Note that, while some people believe this is a "safer" type of leather, that isn't exactly true. It is not necessarily non-toxic, eco-friendly, or chemical-free. Veg-tanned leather is expensive, comes in limited colors and finishes, and does not wear as well as chrome-tanned leather, making it in most cases an inferior option for furniture.

The coloring process:

Pure aniline leather is dyed with translucent aniline dyes that permeate the entire hide and result in a rich color that reveals natural variations of the hide. Think of this as similar to stain on a piece of wood &mdash you see the grain through the stain. These more natural leathers are characterful but can also exhibit more patina with use. These are generally considered to be the most luxurious-looking leathers. Aniline leathers often show more variation in color, both from hide to hide and even from one side of the hide to the other.

Semi-aniline leather has been dyed in a shortened process and receives a pigmented surface finish. Think of this more like paint on wood. The finish tends to be more uniform in color (although additional layers of dye can be applied atop it to recreate character). These leathers are often considered to have a more contemporary look — think modern Italian sofa.

Finishing and coatings and such:

Pull-up leather is most commonly an aniline leather processed with oil or wax as a finishing coat. When these hides are stretched or tufted, the oil or wax dissipates to reveal a burst of lighter colors, giving the finished sofa something of a two-tone effect.

Protected or performance leather is a hide that has received additional top coating to protect against staining, fading, scratching, and/or moisture. These coatings are most commonly applied to semi-aniline leathers and result in a leather that is well-suited for use in households with kids, pets, or high traffic commercial environments. Different leather companies have varying terminology to describe their products, and the specific performance traits will vary from line to line.

Sheen varies from line to line. Many pull-up leathers have a glossy finish to them; leathers that are brushed (like a nubuck) have more of a velvety, matte finish.

Grain also varies from article to article. Many leathers have a corrected grain, where the hide is buffed of imperfections and an artificial grain is embossed onto it. Whether natural or corrected, some hides will feature pronounced grain while others are subtler. Most grain becomes somewhat less apparent when the leather is stretched onto a sofa frame, so if you see a leather swatch and worry that it may have too much texture, remember some of that will stretch out.

Fat wrinkles, healed scars, and other natural hide characteristics can be found on many leathers. These are to be expected with more natural grain leathers, although major flaws will be cut around by the leatherworker. Corrected grain leathers show less of this, as the most apparent imperfections have been buffed out.

Common questions:

"Why can't I find X color in Y type of leather?" The different methods of applying color to a hide place limitations on what hue and vibrance can be achieved. Some colors simply are not possible, or may have proven to be so problematic for the manufacturer that they don't even try. Leather companies also are playing a numbers game; they have to manufacture these colors in relatively large batches, so super niche colors just aren't economically viable. Can you have a leather custom-dyed on request? Yes, feel free to ask us about it. But, as with any highly-customized product, bring your wallet.

"Why can't I find X texture or finish in Y type of leather?" Again, some combinations are simply not possible. You'll never find a semi-aniline leather with the depth or pull-up of an aniline because it's just...different. If it was possible to make a super-saturated, glossy, pull-up leather that was highly scratch and stain resistant, we would have started our own tannery to do it and would be off sailing on our yacht by now. We do not have a yacht.

"Someone told me I shouldn't get leather if I have dogs. Is that true?" No. They don't know what they're talking about and you shouldn't listen to them.

"I like the idea of leather but it feels too cold." Aim for a lower-sheen leather, or something with a brushed finish.

"Should I get a white leather sofa?" Do you live in Miami? Do you have a lot of friends in Columbia? Because it is a vibe. I'm joking. In all seriousness, white leather can look amazing. Just keep in mind that even stain-resistant light-colored leather can still become stained by denim dye transfer from jeans. Your luck asking your houseguests to remove their pants prior to sitting down may vary, so proceed with caution.

"Will a brown leather sofa be boring?" Not at all. Some folks worry that a brown leather sofa can look too "big box store." And it's true that lower-end sofas tend to be found in dark browns. For a higher-end look, go for an aniline pull-up with vibrance and variation, a lighter brown or caramel color, a more velvety finish, or something with a lot of texture.

"Which leather is best?" There's no right answer. (Bonded leather is definitely the wrong answer, though.) The best product is the one that meets your expectations for style, comfort, and suitability to your lifestyle. Not sure what is right for you? Visit our website for more info or send us your questions.